"You want lollipop, lady?"

6.25.2008

Wednesday

Today we explored Cusco. We planned our day over breakfast. First we visited La Compañía de Jusús, a Jesuit church converted from an Incan temple by the Spanish Jesuits. Like the Sixtine chapel, it boasted an alter of wood with gold leaf overlay. Most of it had to be reconstructed in 1650 after a massive earthquake, and again in 1950 after another devastating earthquake. Next we visited La Catedral, also in the Plaza de Armas. La Catedral had taken over 100 years to build and had three sections; two side churches, and the grand cathedral in the middle. In the basement of the grand cathedral are an original Incan’s ashes encased in a bejeweled box, placed behind glass. Also, the famed (around Peru) black Jesus. According to Peruvians, this Jesus represents loving death.

After La Catedral, we saw La Iglesia de San Blas. Inside San Blas church, there is a wooden, carved pulpit that is supposed to be one of the most intricate wood workings in the world. It was extremely detailed. Beyond this piece, more wood with gold foil overlay.

We stopped to get empanadas, much better than those in Aguas Calientes, and only s/2.50 (89 cents). We also bought a baby mango pie and a banana empanada for dessert. Both were intensely rich. As we sat there eating, we were bombarded with vendors. I stopped saying “no gracias” in my annoyance, and started just saying “no”.

“You want postcard, lady?”
“No.”
“You want lollipop, lady?”
“No.”

We watched the passersby in the plaza for awhile. Next we went to the Museo de Arte Religioso. We bought a pass for s/50 to get into each of these four places, a great deal! El museo was full of dark religious art, lots of baby angels with man shaped heads. I don’t really understand why the baby angels need man heads, but anyways. We took about 25 minutes for what our guidebook said would take 1-2 hours. A surprising amount of the art was Spanish Catholic, from when the Spaniards invaded Peru.

Next, we stopped to see the 12 angled rock. This rock has 12 angles on it, made by the Incas. It is said that the number 12 was very important for 12 Incan kings that lived in Cusco. Around the corner, it is said that a certain set of rocks form a rock wall in the shape of the puma, one of the three sacred animals (in case you are wondering, the other two are the condor and the cobra).

The street of the 12 angled stone was well known for another reason. One side was built by the Incans, the other by the Spaniards. They say “one side was built by the Incas, the other by the incapable” (tee hee).

Next, and finally, we went to Qorikancha (or Coricancha) and Santo Domingo. The Spaniards, once again, had built on top of, and all but enclosed, an Incan temple. They had stolen all the gold inside the Sun Temple and melted it down. In Qorikancha, like all the other places we visited today, you could see the undeniable combination of Incan and Catholic religion. Qorikancha had Incan Ruins, as well as religious art, and some modern art. The site had a lot of astrological art as well, showing the influence astrology had on the Incans. The gardens around Qorikancha were beautifully manicured and individual Incan ruin blocks were strewn about. Finally we saw where the Sun Temple of the Incas originally stood, but has since completely disappeared.

After Qorikancha, our last historical stop for the day, Jill and I spent some time in the Plaza Regocijo – noticing how much care was taken to tend to the flowers, trees, and grasses. We watched a little Peruvian boy slide down a block of cement beside the stairs over and over, never quite making it to the bottom without falling off. Jill and I spent the rest of the night relaxing and enjoying our last night in Cusco.